Murree is a beautiful hill station in Pakistan, but it’s overrun with tourists and therefore cheap knick-knack stores and bad restaurants. I tried a ton of overpriced places until I found Qoeta (sic) Khan Cafe.
This is the last dhaba in a long line of them on the gali where Mall Road starts. It’s also the only restaurant in that gali to NOT have a salesman outside trying to bring you in. They don’t need too, because they’re a local favourite!
Qoeta Khan Cafe isn’t even on Google Maps. Use New Lahore Restaurant as your reference point for the lane, then just keep walking until you find the cafe.
This is a Balochi run cafe, so you know the chai is going to be great. And that’s exactly what greets you at the door – the busy Chaiwala with his pots making creamy chai.
There’s a menu hung on the wall, but it’s in Urdu. So take a seat and here’s what to order for breakfast: 2 half-fried eggs, 1 plate chole (chickpeas), 1-2 paratha (fried bread).
The star of the Pakistani breakfast is black pepper. The chole is full of it and people cover their half fried eggs in it. It inspired me a lot and I even make these things for my family back in India now.
Then after, have chai. That’ll cost you around Rs. 250 / $1.50 and will be super filling!
You can swap the plate of Chole for Haleem (thick meat soup), Daal Maas (lentils & meat), Nihari (oily meat curry), or Sabzi (vegetable curry). Aloo (potato) or Unda (egg) paratha is also available. I’m sure there are even more options, but I only speak Urdu – not read (I can read Hindi though).
After breakfast, take a long walk to Kashmir Point. You’ll have the energy after this breakfast!
If you’ve found any great local cafes or dhabas in Murree, please share in the comments! Please no Bundu Khan, Red Onion, Lintott’s Restaurant, or other fancy tourist type places.